Sweets News

Here's something sweet that will appeal to both kids and adults: undyed, all-natural cotton candy spun from maple sugar. Buy it at the Wood Homestead Maple Syrup stand at the Rockefeller Center Greenmarket for five more weeks, or just call 1-866-337-9787.

The Landing at Ocean Beach

Ocean Beach's newest restaurant offers a delightful waterside dining experience at reasonable prices (well, reasonable for Ocean Beach). A friend and I chose it for a light lunch on a perfectly sunny beach afternoon. (We'd already overindulged on seafood bisque and fried flounder wraps at Nicky's Clam Bar before taking the ferry, so the giant pancakes at Rachel's weren't an option. Plus, we wanted to enjoy a view of the bay.)

A classic Caesar with grilled salmon sounded good, but I ended up with a sweet-savory green salad with lots of crumbled Maytag blue cheese, chunks of Granny Smith apple, and crispy candied walnuts in a sweet poppy seed dressing. My friend opted for the mussels provencal; two thick slices of well-buttered, grilled garlic bread lay aside a healthy portion of mussels in a light garlic-wine sauce with diced tomatoes.

If my appetite had allowed, I would've tried the fried scallop sandwich or the fish and chips (only $12). Next time I visit Ocean Beach, I will try to resist the allure of Nicky's so that I can wait to eat at The Landing!

The Landing at Ocean Beach: 620 Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island (631) 583-5800.

Sweets News

I hear we're supposed to have another heat wave. At least through August 1, Rosa Mexicano has us covered; the restaurant is serving a selection of exotic Mexican ice cream and sorbet. Sea salt caramel, blueberry creme fraiche, sweet corn with caramel popcorn, and burnt milk with cinnamon-chocolate cookies are some of the ice cream flavors, while the sorbets include hibiscus-pomegranate and tomatillo-lime. There's also a variety of ice cream desserts. (Note: if you attend a free cooking demo on Saturday, July 17, you'll have a chance to win an ice cream maker. To register, call (212) 397-0666 x27 or E-mail dcastillo@rosamexicano.com.)

Rosa Mexicano: Various locations.

The Best Chocolate Cake in the World

Of course I had to try this place as soon as I heard about it. It opened up next to Ceci-Cela, another favorite bakery, a couple weeks ago. Apparently it's a Portugal-based chain that expanded to various Brazilian cities. (When I think of Brazil, I usually picture bathing beauties or soccer players, not people who indulge in semi-sweet and bittersweet flourless cakes coated with rich, dark ganache.)

The two versions of the cake (the recipe is the same, except for the Valrhona cocoa content) are served with glasses of milk, or whipped cream, or your choice of Il Laboratorio del Gelato (fresh mint or raspberry are nice). There's a thick layer of chocolate mousse, while a soft meringue base adds a spongy mouthfeel.

So, is this cake the best chocolate cake in the world? I'm not sure; I'm rather partial to the so-chocolatey-it's-almost-black Brooklyn Blackout at Two Little Red Hens, or the Nocturne at Michel Cluizel (I guess that's cheating, as it has raspberry jam in it, and what's even better than chocolate? Chocolate with raspberry jam). But it's definitely a contender if you are open to a nontraditional cake with meringue instead of actual "cake"; both versions are creamy, intensely chocolatey, and not overly sweet.

The Best Chocolate Cake in the World: 55A Spring St. (212) 343-2253.

Francois Chocolate Bar

I miss the old, wood-panelled Payard on Lexington Avenue; the new one, way up on the fourth floor of a Parisian jewelry store, is much smaller and quieter, with a fraction of the old menu. However, another location will open on Houston Street in a couple months, and I'm sure it will be packed with both goodies and people (like me).

One treat I never glimpsed at the old Payard is the verrine, which I highly recommend. This refreshing summer parfait comes in several variations - the strawberry tiramisu contains vanilla pound cake, strawberries that have been roasted for four hours, mascarpone and candied fennel, while a Japanese-influenced verrine features a layer of tart yuzu cream. This being Payard, of course there's also an all-chocolate verrine.

Other menu items feature signature pastries, hot and cold chocolate drinks, macarons, pound cake and cookies, and a selection of chocolate bouchons. You can still order those wonderful chewy flourless chocolate walnut cookies; now there's a flourless milk chocolate cake with candied orange and hazelnuts.

Even though it was so warm out, I ordered a hot dark chocolate with orange blossom and raspberry. The fruit rescued it from being too rich, and I easily drained the whole cup.

Francois Chocolate Bar @ Mauboussin: 714 Madison Ave., (212) 759-1600.